August 7, 2023
(click on photos to view slideshow)
We drove 67 miles to the Rayport Campground in Martin’s River, Nova Scotia. We/I was a little nervous about the condition of the campground since we learned it was flooded 2 weeks ago. The flooding prompted mandatory evacuation for 250 to 300 people that were staying at the campground. The campground website posted that everything was fixed and the campground operational.
Upon arrival, we were assigned to a riverfront site. The owners told us that the river sites were totally underwater 2 weeks ago. I don’t see any evidence of the flood!
We have a 2 night stay scheduled and the weather forecast is for rain on Day 2. The campground is close to the areas we want to visit, so, we decided to tour the area while the weather was good.
The first area we saw was Mahone Bay. Our first glimpse was of a picturesque seaside village. This was a surprise area for us…I guess we/I didn’t do very good research. I was focused on Lunnenberg…our next stop.
When we reached Lunnenberg, the area was bustling with tourists and locals. It was the holiday…Natal Day! We drove around taking in all the bright colorful buildings and postcard perfect harbor. We were unable to find a parking spot near the action, but, we were able to find a spot across the harbor where I could take some photos.
On our way back towards the campground, we stopped at Oak Island. Oak Island is a privately owned tree covered island in Mahone Bay. It is is connected to the mainland by a causeway. The island is best known for various theories about buried treasure or historical artifacts. Mahone Bay is a small town that hugs the shore, and we walked along the waterfront taking in the pretty views.
Day 2 – August 8
With the weather cool and dry, we returned to Mahone Bay and Lunnenberg.
Mahone Bay
Mahone Bay is a tiny strip of a town with attractive buildings, cute eateries, and shops. As we drove into the town we had a view of the iconic three churches of Mahone Bay; Trinity United Church, St. John’s Lutheran Church, and St. James Anglican Church. Throughout the town we saw well maintained, century-old houses, painted in very vibrant colors! Many are now Bed & Breakfasts, art studios, artisans’ shops, eclectic boutiques, restaurants and cafés.
After taking some photos, we decided that we would rather spend our time in Lunnenberg.
Lunnenberg
Lunnenberg was crowded again today, but, not like yesterday. The town rests on a fairly steep hillside that comes down to the water’s edge. There were a slew of boats and sailboats out in the pretty harbor. We found a great parking spot near the harbor and put enough Canadian Coins into the meter for 3 hours. We walked around the harbor looking at the boats and some museum displays.
We watched a group gathering for a daysail on the schooner Eastern Star. They were all seated in the boat ready to set sail when the captain picked up a conch shell and blew a long, loud blast. They were off!
For non-sailors, there were horse drawn wagon rides making rounds about town with a tour guide.
We walked uphill to another street that was lined with unique shops and restaurants blending with the well preserved painted historic homes.
Yesterday, we saw a long line waiting to get into the Fish Shack. Long line =good food! Today, we passed the same resataurant around noon and there was no one in line. We continued walking to the end of the street. By the time we returned, there were about 10 people waiting. We found out that the line outside is waiting to go inside to order. They only let 1 customer in at a time. Once we ordered we located an outdoor patio table on the lower level with a superb view of the harbor. Today’s order: FISH & CHIPS,beer-battered haddock, coleslaw, tartar sauce, hand cut fries and MARINER’S MOUTHFUL,deep-fried clams, panko crusted A&K scallops, beer battered haddock,hand cut fries, tartar sauce. We came for the seafood and stayed for the view!
As we were finishing lunch, we saw the Bluenose II ship sailing into harbor. In 1921, a ship called the Bluenose launched from the shores of Lunenburg. It became a world-renowned racing champion, going undefeated for 17 years. It even appears on Canadian currency! (dime)! The Bluenose II is an exact replica of the original ship. It has sailed around the world, but spends most of its time docked in Lunnenberg.
Before leaving the seaside village, I wanted to get a photo of the whole town from across the bay. We drove to a hillside golf course that had excellent views. They even had parking spots set aside for “photo taking”.
At the end of the day, Lunnenberg is a small, quaint, tourist town that is picture postcard perfect in every way.
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